Vienna’s Fashion District

When I first moved to Budapest in 1999 shopping was much more difficult than it is today—both for food and clothing. In those days many expats still made regular trips to Vienna to shop, and even basic items (contact lens solution comes to mind) were hard to find in Budapest. Now the many international specialty food shops; international clothing chains; and many, many malls make shopping remarkably easier. Far better than the malls, however, is discovering the growing number of local designers (the best place to do this is at the monthly WAMP design market, coming up on June 27th).

But I still like to take the occasional day trip to Vienna, just a two-hour drive from Budapest. Inevitably, I spend most of my time at the Naschmarkt where you can shop, have coffee, shop some more, and then have drinks and dinner. Afterwards, I like to head over to my favorite Viennese neighborhood, the nearby 7th district, where the cafes spill out onto the sidewalks and every block holds at least one little quirky boutique. I recently wrote about shopping in the neighborhood, which is the city’s center of creativity.

Here are a few shops that were left out of the article:

At Art Point (Neubaugasse 35), Russian-born Lena Kvadrat (pictured below) is influenced by men’s clothing, and many of her designs incorporate men’s shirt or suit fabric, cuffs, or collars. Ulliko’s (Kirchengasse 7/4) designs are characterized by symmetric lines and the colors black, white, gray, and red. Ina Kent (Lindengasse 46) creates beautiful multi-functional leather wallets, bags, and purses, only available in Austria (pictured above). Check out Elke Freytag (Lindengasse 14) for elegant and feminine designs, with bold colors and cuts. Maronski (Lindengasse 1) sells colorful and functional cotton outfits, several of which can be worn multiple ways.

If you’re interested in checking out some of these shops June 25th would be a good time to do it. The neighborhood’s shops and businesses are throwing a huge party which will include art exhibitions and concerts. And plenty of shopping, of course.

I already know what I’m buying on my next trip to Vienna.

–Carolyn

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Tokaj in 2008

Yesterday the New York Times published its “53 Places to Go in 2008” list and named Tokaj as number 52. Tokaj, Hungary’s most famed wine region, also happens to be my favorite part of the country. Not only does it turn out great white wines, but I think it of one of the most beautiful areas of Hungary.  Its centuries old stone wine cellars are covered in black “noble mold” and some stretch back several kilometers, forming virtual streets and mazes under the ground. Tokaj joins other destinations like Laos (number 1) and Libya (number 10) and the Northwest Passage (number 35) and Bogota (number 21). Prague is also on there at number 14.

The Times writes:

Backpacking wine tours? The Hungarian wine region of Tokaj is regaining its reputation for quality whites, especially wheat-colored dessert wines made from furmint grapes. The region’s winemaking was reborn after the fall of Communism. The Grof Degenfeld, housed in an old castle, even has a plush hotel that offers two-day packages starting at 191 euros, or $283 at $1.50 to the euro.

But backpacking wine tours? Since when do backpackers book 2 day packages at plush hotels for $283? The Grof Degenfeld hotel and winery are lovely and elegant, by the way, and so is the more affordable Grof Degenfeld panzió in the center of Tokaj. But even there you’re not likely to see any backpacking wine drinkers.

–Carolyn

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Eating Hungarian in America

I haven’t had much experience sampling Hungarian food outside of Hungary, and the ones that I have had haven’t been memorable. I spend enough time in Hungary anyway so that when I leave the country I want to eat anything but Hungarian food. But Al’s Corner Restaurant, which I wrote about on Chew.hu, seems to be one place that would seem worth checking out.

Does anyone know any good Hungarian restaurants in America or elsewhere outside of Hungary? Has anyone been to Al’s?

–Carolyn

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