Category Archives: Hungarian Food

Favorite Restaurants in Budapest

Posted on by
2

We get asked all the time for restaurant recommendations, so here are a few of our favorite places to eat Hungarian food in Budapest. The dining scene in Budapest continues to evolve for the better. Higher quality restaurants run by creative and highly-skilled chefs and owners are (thankfully) becoming more prevalent. Still, it’s well worth taking the time to strategize about where you’ll eat to avoid wasting time and money on a dud. Reservations aren’t always needed (but are recommended), and for the most part Hungarians are pretty casual when dining out.

While there may be less and less Hungarians dining out at the more expensive restaurants, if you’re coming to Hungary with foreign currency in your pocket you’ll find prices to be very moderate for the quality, portions, and dining experience that you get.

Of course there are many more good restaurants than we’ve listed here, but this should get you started! Jó étvágyat!

For much more on where and what to eat and drink in Budapest, check out my books: Food Wine Budapest (Little Bookroom) and The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary (Park Kiadó).

—Carolyn

LUNCH PLACES / ´ETKEZDES
Don’t leave Budapest without lunching at an étkezde. Only open for lunch, these simple places serve very simple, inexpensive Hungarian food. The menus tend to change daily, and the better ones are as close to homestyle cooking as you will get in a restaurant. You can expect to pay less than 2,000 HUF for a meal at most étkezdes. Most only accept cash and don’t offer alcohol or coffee. And, don’t be surprised if you feel rushed…they need to turn those tables! Read about more of our favorite étkezdes.

Kádár Étkezde
VII. Klauzal tér 9
+36-1-321-3622

This place is an institution in the Jewish Quarter, and is one of the few étkezdes which is on the tourist track (though the many locals who dine here regularly don’t seem to notice). If you can brave the sometimes extensive lines, come on Saturday to try the excellent sólet (cholent) which has been cooked for so long that the beans are almost caramelized. Otherwise, the stuffed peppers served in slightly sweet tomato sauce are one of my favorite standbys.

Roma Ételbar 
I. Csalogány utca 20
+36-1-201-4545
www.controll.hu/roma

Though you wouldn’t know it if you’re not a local, this place attracts many low-key Hungarian celebrities who live in the neighborhood. But it counts among its regulars even more office workers and construction workers who come for the generous portions of standard Hungarian dishes. Inside, the small dining room is dark and stuffy, but when the weather is warm the place more than doubles in size by adding tables on the sidewalk. Carnivores will love the Cigánypecsenye, a slab or pork topped with a chunk of roasted bacon and lots of garlic.

Belvárosi Disznótoros
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 17

This is not an étkezde, but a modern take on a butcher shop. In Hungary butcher shops are not just places to buy meat, but places to have a quick stand-up lunch. This place serves the sausages, roasted meats, and pickled vegetables that are typical of a “pig-killing platter,” as the name implies. While you’re here, pick up some of the lovely Mangalica sausages.

TRADITIONAL

Fülemüle 
VIII. Kőfaragó utca 5
+36-1-266-7947
www.fulemule.hu

This restaurant near Blaha Lujza tér serves Hungarian food with a Jewish twist. Testament to its popularity, the walls hold many pictures of local politicians, artists, and celebrities who love the place, as well as the extended family of the proprietor. While you’ll find many typical Hungarian dishes here, it’s worth sampling one of the Jewish dishes such as the house-smoked beef brisket or the sólet (cholent) topped with, perhaps, a roasted goose leg or a piece of goose liver. Owner András Singer is usually around and loves to chat about food with customers.

Centrál Kávéház 
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9
+36-1-266-2110
www.centralkavehaz.hu

Many of the city’s famous old coffee houses have lost their charming, laid-back atmosphere, but not the Centrál. This 19th century coffee house (and former literary haunt) was beautifully and authentically restored about a decade ago and was recently slightly modernized. Take a peek upstairs to see the room where famous writers and editors put together their publications. The menu offers good, slightly updated Hungarian fare (the duck breast and chicken paprikás are both excellent). There is a bargain-priced weekday lunch special (2 courses for 1,200 HUF and 3 courses for 1,590 HUF), though the dishes are simpler than those found on the main menu. This is not the place to skip dessert!

Café Kör
V. Sas utca 17
+36-1-311-0053
www.cafekor.com

Many Budapest restaurants now like to call themselves bistros, but Café Kör has long perfected the genre. The place is cozy, with a long list of daily specials scrawled on the wall, as well as a menu of longstanding favorites. The menu here is more-or-less traditional Hungarian (though not quite as heavy as super traditional homemade Hungarian food). A good place to start is with the steak tartare or a cold plate of cured meats.  For dessert, try a Hungarian classic like Mákos guba (poppyseed bread pudding) or Chestnut puree. The restaurant is centrally located near the Basilica. Reservations are essential, and credit cards are not accepted. Omelets and other simple dishes are available for breakfast from 10am.

Bagolyvár
XIV. Állatkerti út 2
+36-1-468-3110
www.bagolyvar.com

Located in City Park, just next to the Zoo and across from the Széchenyi bath house, this restaurant is part of the Gundel empire. But whatever Gundel is (over-priced, stuffy, elegant), Bagolyvár is the opposite. While many say this place is simply a cheaper version of Gundel, the two restaurants each have their own kitchens and serve very different styles of food. “Owl’s Castle” is run exclusively by women—from the head chef to the cleaners—and the food is ultra-traditional. Don’t let the old-school dining room scare you away (the dark wood and bright orange tablecloths are a tad outdated), because if you’re after classic Hungarian food, you’ll find it here. The patio out back is actually the border of the zoo, so don’t be surprised if you hear the sounds of animals squawking as you eat.

MODERN

Borkonyha
V. Sas utca 3
+36-1-266-0835
www.borkonyha.hu

Located near the Basilica, this restaurant opened about a year ago and quickly became one of Budapest’s top restaurants (and a personal favorite). The menu changes frequently, with daily specials written on the board inside, and the focus is on fresh, seasonal ingredients simply prepared. The menu offers a wonderful combination of well-known Hungarian dishes (prepared in a contemporary way), as well as more creative dishes prepared with wholly-Hungarian ingredients. Don’t miss the signature foie gras appetizer, which is seared with thin layers of strudel dough on top, making it perfectly crispy on the outside. The name translates as “Wine Kitchen,” and as it implies, wine is taken very seriously. The waiters know their wine well, so just ask if you need help picking a glass or a bottle.

Pesti Disznó
VI. Nagymező utca 19
+36-1-951-4061

This newish restaurant is manned by Tamás Bereznay, a chef who has written several cookbooks and cooked for the president. Located on the so-called “Hungarian Broadway” (not far from the Opera), the idea here is Hungarian food served on small plates. You’ll find mini portions of Hungarian classics (such as an excellent cold goose liver with red onion marmalade and chicken paprikás), as well as some more imaginative recipes using Hungarian ingredients. The tasting menu offers five courses each paired with a different wine and is a great value at 6,990 HUF. With its open kitchen and funky music, this place is lively and is one of the few options for good late-night eating (it’s open until 1am). During the warm weather there are many tables set up outside, but since the inside is quite small, reservation are recommended.

Klassz
VI. Andrássy út 41
www.klasszetterem.hu

Connected with the Bortársaság chain of wine shops, this cozy restaurant near the Opera House is busily decorated with different patterns of floral wallpaper. The menu is brief and changes frequently. It offers dishes that are not quite Hungarian, though there are usually a few Hungarian dishes on the menu if that’s what you are looking for. The equally brief wine list consists of smartly-selected primarily Hungarian wines. Try a glass of the Gellavilla Olaszrizling (made by one of the owners of the wine shop) for a perfect aperitif. If you find something you like, head to the back of the restaurant where there is a small shop selling many of the wines. The two-course lunch special is a bargain at 890 HUF, though the dishes are much simpler than those found on the main menu. Klassz does not take reservations so you may have to wait for awhile on a busy night.

Olimpia Vendéglő
VII. Alpár utca 5
+36-1- 321-2805
www.alparutca.hu

No, you did not accidentally wander into a Greek restaurant. Olimpia just happened to keep the name, and most of the décor, from the restaurant that previously occupied this space. If you don’t like surprises, go somewhere else. Rather than writing a list of daily specials on a chalkboard, at Olimpia they write a list of ingredients that the chef will be working with that day. The only decision you make is how many courses you’d like (four courses are 5,700 HUF and seven courses are 8,300 HUF). Then, just sip a glass of wine and wait and see what shows up on your plate. For me, I don’t mind the tradeoff of one or two off courses for the surprise factor. Excellent service is a major part of the package here.

Bock Bisztró
VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49
+36-1-321-0340
www.bockbisztro.hu

Though Bock Bisztró is connected to the Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal, it is not your typical hotel restaurant. It is named for one of the great winemakers in Villány, József Bock, but chef Lajos Bíró is really the brains behind the place. Of course, there’s an extensive wine list here (and not just wines made by Bock). With your first glass of wine, a good place to start on the menu is with a few borkorcsolyák (“wine snacks”) for the table. Though the menu sounds pretty straightforward, the Hungarian dishes on the menu will surprise you with their inventive presentation and contemporary style. Breakfast is served between 8am and 11am, and advance reservations are essential.

Csalogány 26
I. Csalogány utca 26
+36-1- 201-7892
www.csalogany26.hu

Named for its address, the atmosphere here is a bit cool, and the location is a tad isolated (between Batthyány tér and Szell Kálmán tér) keep this place in mind for a slow, and memorable, dinner. In addition to the regular menu, you can choose from a four course (8,000 HUF) or an 8 course (12,000 HUF) menu (add wine pairings for a few more thousand HUF). While the menu is not Hungarian, many of the ingredients are local staples. A television screen in the dining room stays focused on the busy kitchen stovetops, so you can see how your meal is progressing behind the scenes.

IN THE STARS
If collecting Michelin-starred restaurants is your thing, Budapest now has two one-stared ones:

Costes 
IX. Ráday utca 4
+36 1 219 0696
www.costes.hu

Closed during lunch.

Onyx 
V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8
+36 1 429 9023
www.onyxrestaurant.hu

Onyx offers a  special less-expensive lunch menu (as do many Budapest restaurants).

Share

Tamás Bereznay’s Greek Lemon Cake

Posted on by
1

Görög Citromos Süti

{Greek Lemon Cake}

I have a pretty big collection of old Hungarian and Transylvanian cookbooks—both in English and Hungarian—which I love for the insight into the periods when they were written and the many recipes which are hardly prepared anymore. Most of the books, I have to say, are just decorations on my bookshelf since I have not had the patience to actually cook from them. I’ll compare several recipes from different cookbooks, but the recipes are brief to the point of being unusable. There are no cooking times or temperatures, and practically no description. The recipes are basically lists of ingredients, written for housewives who learned to cook from their mothers and grandmothers, lived at their stoves, and knew from the sight, smell, and feel when something was done. Even though I am a pretty good cook with a culinary school degree, I like my recipes to hold my hand more, especially when I’m preparing something I’ve never tasted or seen before.

Recently I got two contemporary Hungarian cookbooks (which were lacking in my collection) which I couldn’t wait to get home and start cooking from. Author Tamás Bereznay is the chef at Budapest’s Karpatia Étterem as well as the chef for the Hungarian President. The books—Mai Magyar Konyha (Today’s Hungarian Kitchen) and Süteményeskönyv (Book of Desserts)—are both beautifully photographed and present Hungarian cuisine in a contemporary and casual way, the way that I like to cook my Hungarian dishes at home. But Bereznay doesn’t do anything crazy with the food to make it “modern”—you won’t find anything like deconstructed pörkölt or radical Dobos torta. He presents his recipes the way Hungarians eat and cook now, making sure that he don’t forget the many strong traditions of the past. He counts his grandmother as his greatest culinary influence.

A few months ago I sat down with Bereznay to talk about modern Hungarian cuisine (more on that topic later), which may restaurants nowadays in Budapest tout on their menus. “I hope that in a few years we will have more modern Hungarian cuisine to talk about,” he said. “We’ve made a few starts.” There are some dishes, he noted, that just shouldn’t be messed with, such as töltött kaposzta (stuffed cabbage) and gulyás (goulash). “These dishes have proven to the world that Hungarian gastronomy is good in itself.”

I’ve cooked several recipes from the books so far. Since I have such a sweet tooth, I’ll start with an adaptation of Bereznay’s Görög Citromos Süti (Greek Lemon Cake) from Süteményeskönyv. I used significantly less sugar (both for the cake and the syrup) than the recipe called for, and it turned out sweet enough for everyone. This moist lemony cake is perfect for summertime. It is even better the day after it’s prepared, once the syrup has fully been absorbed.

Görög Citromos Süti
{Greek Lemon Cake}

This recipe is adapted from Tamás Bereznay’s Süteményeskönyv (Boook Kiadó)

For the Cake:
1 lemon, with the rind grated (reserve the juice for the syrup)
3 eggs
300 ml (10 ounces) plain yogurt
200 grams (slightly less than 1 cup) sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
120 grams (1 cup) semolina
200 grams (1 1/2 cups) flour
Pinch of salt

For the Syrup:
100 ml (1/2 cup) water
100 grams (1/2 cup) sugar
3 lemons, with the rinds grated

For the Cake:
Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). In a small bowl, combine the eggs, yogurt, and grated lemon rind. In a large mixing bowl, combine the baking powder, flour, semolina, sugar, and the salt. Stir the yogurt mixture into the flour mixture until just combined. Pour into a greased loaf pan and bake for about 50 minutes, until golden brown.

For the Syrup:
Add the water, grated lemon rinds, lemon juice, and sugar to a small saucepan. Cook on a low flame, stirring occasionally, for about ten minutes.

To assemble the Cake:
Prick the cake all over with a fork. Pour the warmed syrup evenly all over the cake. Let the cake fully absorb all of the syrup before serving.

–Carolyn

Share

Kovászos Uborka {Recipe}

Posted on by
Reply

{Fermented Cucumbers}

In Hungary, this hot stretch of summer in which the city empties and not much happens is known as cucumber season. The markets, of course, are also full of small, bumpy gherkins. With the gherkins, bunches of half-dried dill are sold, much stronger than the standard variety, with thick stalks and flowers. Many of cucumbers will get stuffed into three-liter jars with the dill (and sometimes garlic), covered with salty water, and topped with a piece of stale bread. The jars will be set in the sun on window sills or terraces in the city, or in the grass of a countryside garden. The yeast in the bread helps preserve the cucumbers through the process of lactic acid fermentation (the same process used for creating kimchi and sauerkraut).

It takes about three days, and the pickles should still be slightly crunchy with a pleasant sour taste. They are often served with meat dishes, or just eaten on their own. I love them sliced and eaten with bread and good házi butter. Some people like to drink the juice, and in the old days, it was added to wine to make a sort of spritzer. As you can see in the photo, I made just a half batch as they don’t keep as long as regular pickles.

See also my recipe for cucumber salad.

Kovászos Uborka
{Fermented Cucumbers}

Gherkins, cleaned, enough to fill whatever size jar you are using
Dill, a few stalks, preferably the strong kind
Salt
Pinch of sugar
Garlic, optional
1 slice of bread (stale is fine)

In a clean jar, arrange the gherkins upright, fairly tightly-packed, in the jar. Add the dill stalks and garlic, if using. Meanwhile, add the salt and sugar to a pot of lukewarm water, using two tablespoons of salt for every one liter (approximately one quart) of water. Pour the water over the cucumbers, ensuring that all of them are covered. Place the bread on top, and cover with a plate or a loosely-secured lid (some air should be allowed in). Place the jar in a warm spot, but not under strong direct sun. After the second day test to see how the pickles are doing. They should be ready after three or four days when you should transfer them to smaller jars and store in the refrigerator.

Tips: Be sure the cucumbers are fresh (one bitter one could ruin the batch). If the cucumbers are thick, slit them length-wise a few times so the liquid can make better contact with the interior. I was also advised to bring the jar inside during the night in case it gets chilly out, which could slow the fermentation process.

–Carolyn

Share

Where Everything is Made From Scratch

Posted on by
2

It has been such an adventure exploring the food of Hungary over the past ten years. Still, after all of the restaurants and homes I’ve eaten in, some of my most memorable meals have been at the table at Gábor’s mother’s house. Undoubtedly, Kati néni has been the biggest influence to me in my quest to learn (and taste) all there is in Hungary. She is a perfectionist in the kitchen, and it was at her house that I learned how every Hungarian dish is truly supposed to taste when done right. I picked up lots from her by osmosis, just by hanging out in the kitchen, asking questions, and tasting. The best part: she takes special requests—something that four-year-old Anna is also learning—and asks us what we are in the mood for a few days before we go for a visit. And she always sends us home with a bag or two of home-cooked goodness. Read what I wrote about her cooking this week for Culinate. Also included with the article are my recipes for csirke paprikás and its traditional accompaniments, galuska and cucumber salad.

–Carolyn

Share

Balaton’s Best

Posted on by
2

We end up going to Lake Balaton at least once a year, sometimes more. But, I have to admit, I am not a big fan of the lake itself. I do love looking at it, preferably from the terrace of a restaurant, with a glass of wine in my hand. But, although I try every visit, I just don’t really like swimming in it. On our last trip there, about a month ago, I didn’t have this problem. Since it wasn’t swimming season, we just stuck to eating and drinking.

I wrote about what we ate and drank at two great restaurants here on Chew.hu. And I’d just like to emphasize that a meal at Szent Orbán Borház in Badacsony (a restaurant owned by winemaker Huba Szeremley) in itself makes a trip to Balaton totally worthwhile. Definitely, it’s one of Hungary’s finest restaurants, and for what you get it’s a great value. Pictured above is one of the tables from the restaurant’s big patio, surrounded by Szeremley’s vineyards and the lake in the background (although it’s not very visible since it was a cloudy day).  A highlight of our meal at Szent Orbán was the  hidegtál (“cold plate”), which is a common offer on the appetizer menu in Hungary. Here, though, it is special since all of the meat on it comes from the heritage breeds like Mangalica pigs and Hungarian Grey Cattle which Szermley raises on his nearby farm.

–Carolyn

Share

Wild Duck Móra Módra

Posted on by
1

A few weeks ago while everyone else was eating turkey we ate wild duck. And as you can see in the photo on the left it was truly a wild duck, which someone had actually hunted and shot. The poor thing was even missing a leg. The duck weighed in at just under a kilo and we bought it on the lower level of the Central Market for astonishingly cheap (around 1,400 HUF). We didn’t plan on buying wild duck that day, and although we’ve cooked plenty of duck, neither of us had ever cooked wild duck before so we didn’t know where to start. After unwrapping the duck and seeing the pellet hole, I wasn’t feeling very prepared for cooking this duck, especially after reading this in one Internet recipe

Most wild ducks are apt to have the flavor of fish and when on hands of unexperienced cooks are sometimes unpalatable on this account. Before roasting them, parboil them with a small peeled carrot put within each duck. This absorbs the unpleasant taste.

I didn’t like the idea of parboiling it, but I also didn’t want a duck that tasted like fish. But as usual, Hungarian cooks aren’t as fussy when it comes to recipes, so I checked one of my Hungarian cookbooks, Szakácskönyve (Cookbook) by Móra Ferencné and found a perfectly easy recipe. Unlike regular ducks which drip with fat when you roast them, wild ducks are lean and easily dry out, so don’t be stingy with the bacon fat.

Published in 1949, the Szakácskönyve is a great basic Hungarian cookbook (if you can understand enough Hungarian to use it). It has recipes for any Hungarian dish or preparation that you’d possibly need. It also includes entertaining illustrations on how to set the tables for the different meals which comes in handy of you want to make sure you’re putting the sugar bowl and the butter container on exactly the right part of the breakfast table. Life in Móra’s house must have been nice, with a lunch table that included six separate glasses.

But like most books from that time it doesn’t include cooking temperatures or times, so you’ve got to have some idea what you’re doing. The recipes are always short, but often too short. Back then, it seems, readers did not have to have cooking techniques explained to them. Everyone knew how to make a roux and a butter cream without step-by-step instructions. Móra Ferencné (or Mrs. Frank Móra) was the wife of a famous Hungarian writer, known for his children’s books. Móra néni was such a perfectionist, according to her granddaughter who happens to live in the village where my husband grew up, that she’d throw any dish that didn’t turn out well onto the kitchen floor. Marta néni, the grand daughter, sweetly wanted to sign our copy of the book after finding out that we use it.

Our duck turned out great–we didn’t have to throw it on the floor–and it tasted nothing like fish. If you try this recipe yourself, remember to watch out for the pellet while you’re eating, especially if you’re feeding it to small children.

Roasted Wild Duck (adapted from Móra Ferencné)

Wash the duck and sprinkle it with salt. Place in a roasting pan and cover with thin slices of szalonna (fatty bacon). Sprinkle thyme and pepper in the cavity of the duck and stuff with an onion half and an apple half. Slice the other half of the onion and add with a half cup of water to the pan. Roast at 350 F (180 C) for about an hour and fifteen minutes (depending on the size of your duck), adding more water as needed.

I also made an orange sauce in the pan after the duck was finished cooking by deglazing the pan with the juice of one orange and then adding another chopped orange to the mix.

–Carolyn

Share

Eating Hungarian in America

Posted on by
Reply

I haven’t had much experience sampling Hungarian food outside of Hungary, and the ones that I have had haven’t been memorable. I spend enough time in Hungary anyway so that when I leave the country I want to eat anything but Hungarian food. But Al’s Corner Restaurant, which I wrote about on Chew.hu, seems to be one place that would seem worth checking out.

Does anyone know any good Hungarian restaurants in America or elsewhere outside of Hungary? Has anyone been to Al’s?

–Carolyn

Share

Ten Things to Taste in Hungary

Posted on by
Reply

Spend a few days here eating at Hungarian restaurants and you’ll quickly become familiar with the classic Hungarian dishes like chicken paprikás and gulyás (better known as goulash). But there’s lots more to eating in Hungary than those ubiquitous dishes. Here are some other of my favorite Hungarian specialties that you must try:

  1. A bar made of chocolate-covered curd cheese may not sound appealing, but the tasty túró rudi is one of the best-known Hungarian brands, and possibly the country’s most adored confection. Look for them in red and white spotted wrappers in the dairy aisles of grocery and convenience stores.
  2. You’ll never eat bland grocery store honey (méz) again after tasting the Hungarian single varietal honeys sold at the markets. The most prevalent varieties are acacia and lime blossom, but chestnut and sunflower honey are also commonly found.
  3. It may sound barbaric, but bone marrow spread on toast and sprinkled with salt, pepper, and paprika is an indulgence worth trying. Look for it on the menus of Budapest’s more traditional restaurants.
  4. Sweet Tokaj dessert wine gets all of the fame, but the dry and semi-sweet wines from Tokaj can also be phenomenal. Do sip some of the sweet stuff, but also sample other types of Tokaj wine such as dry furmint or hárslevelű, both native Hungarian varietals.
  5. If you’re drinking homemade stuff, pálinka (Hungarian fruit brandy) can go down like gasoline. But the high-end artisanal stuff can be fantastic. After a big dinner, any type of pálinka from Agárdi or Zimek will make you happy.
  6. Hungary may be a landlocked country, but it’s paprika laced fisherman’s soup (halászlé), made from freshwater fish like catfish and carp, is excellent. Hungarians like it best when the fish roe and milt are also in the pot. Have a glass of light red Hungarian wine like kadarka or kékfrankos to accompany it.
  7. Curly haired Mangalica pigs nearly died out during the Communist era since their preference for roaming the woods and foraging for food didn’t mesh with the Communist-era industrial pig farms. Breeders have been slowly bringing them back, and many of Budapest’s best restaurants offer dishes made with their tasty meat. It tastes nothing like the pork you are used to, partially because of its high fat content, which also makes it ideal for sausage and salami making.
  8. Aranygaluska, “golden dumplings”, are yeast-raised buns, brushed with melted butter, flavored with apricot jam and ground walnuts, and sprinkled with vanilla sugar. It’s traditionally a home-made dish, rarely found in restaurants.
  9. Now is the season for szilvás gombóc, which is plums wrapped in a potato dough, boiled, tossed in buttery bread crumbs, and sprinkled with powdered sugar. Beware, these dumplings are addictive.
  10. Székely káposzta, a dish best eaten in the winter, is a pork and sauerkraut stew seasoned with paprika and served with sour cream. It’s one of the best things I can think of to eat when the weather is cold.

This list, of course, is just the beginning.

–Carolyn

Share