We get asked all the time for restaurant recommendations, so here are a few of our favorite places to eat Hungarian food in Budapest. The dining scene in Budapest continues to evolve for the better. Higher quality restaurants run by creative and highly-skilled chefs and owners are (thankfully) becoming more prevalent. Still, it’s well worth taking the time to strategize about where you’ll eat to avoid wasting time and money on a dud. Reservations aren’t always needed (but are recommended), and for the most part Hungarians are pretty casual when dining out.
While there may be less and less Hungarians dining out at the more expensive restaurants, if you’re coming to Hungary with foreign currency in your pocket you’ll find prices to be very moderate for the quality, portions, and dining experience that you get.
Of course there are many more good restaurants than we’ve listed here, but this should get you started! Jó étvágyat!
For much more on where and what to eat and drink in Budapest, check out my books: Food Wine Budapest (Little Bookroom) and The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary (Park Kiadó).
—Carolyn
LUNCH PLACES / ´ETKEZDES
Don’t leave Budapest without lunching at an étkezde. Only open for lunch, these simple places serve very simple, inexpensive Hungarian food. The menus tend to change daily, and the better ones are as close to homestyle cooking as you will get in a restaurant. You can expect to pay less than 2,000 HUF for a meal at most étkezdes. Most only accept cash and don’t offer alcohol or coffee. And, don’t be surprised if you feel rushed…they need to turn those tables! Read about more of our favorite étkezdes.
Kádár Étkezde
VII. Klauzal tér 9
+36-1-321-3622
This place is an institution in the Jewish Quarter, and is one of the few étkezdes which is on the tourist track (though the many locals who dine here regularly don’t seem to notice). If you can brave the sometimes extensive lines, come on Saturday to try the excellent sólet (cholent) which has been cooked for so long that the beans are almost caramelized. Otherwise, the stuffed peppers served in slightly sweet tomato sauce are one of my favorite standbys.
Roma Ételbar
I. Csalogány utca 20
+36-1-201-4545
www.controll.hu/roma
Though you wouldn’t know it if you’re not a local, this place attracts many low-key Hungarian celebrities who live in the neighborhood. But it counts among its regulars even more office workers and construction workers who come for the generous portions of standard Hungarian dishes. Inside, the small dining room is dark and stuffy, but when the weather is warm the place more than doubles in size by adding tables on the sidewalk. Carnivores will love the Cigánypecsenye, a slab or pork topped with a chunk of roasted bacon and lots of garlic.
Belvárosi Disznótoros
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 17
This is not an étkezde, but a modern take on a butcher shop. In Hungary butcher shops are not just places to buy meat, but places to have a quick stand-up lunch. This place serves the sausages, roasted meats, and pickled vegetables that are typical of a “pig-killing platter,” as the name implies. While you’re here, pick up some of the lovely Mangalica sausages.
TRADITIONAL
Fülemüle
VIII. Kőfaragó utca 5
+36-1-266-7947
www.fulemule.hu
This restaurant near Blaha Lujza tér serves Hungarian food with a Jewish twist. Testament to its popularity, the walls hold many pictures of local politicians, artists, and celebrities who love the place, as well as the extended family of the proprietor. While you’ll find many typical Hungarian dishes here, it’s worth sampling one of the Jewish dishes such as the house-smoked beef brisket or the sólet (cholent) topped with, perhaps, a roasted goose leg or a piece of goose liver. Owner András Singer is usually around and loves to chat about food with customers.
Centrál Kávéház
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9
+36-1-266-2110
www.centralkavehaz.hu
Many of the city’s famous old coffee houses have lost their charming, laid-back atmosphere, but not the Centrál. This 19th century coffee house (and former literary haunt) was beautifully and authentically restored about a decade ago and was recently slightly modernized. Take a peek upstairs to see the room where famous writers and editors put together their publications. The menu offers good, slightly updated Hungarian fare (the duck breast and chicken paprikás are both excellent). There is a bargain-priced weekday lunch special (2 courses for 1,200 HUF and 3 courses for 1,590 HUF), though the dishes are simpler than those found on the main menu. This is not the place to skip dessert!
Café Kör
V. Sas utca 17
+36-1-311-0053
www.cafekor.com
Many Budapest restaurants now like to call themselves bistros, but Café Kör has long perfected the genre. The place is cozy, with a long list of daily specials scrawled on the wall, as well as a menu of longstanding favorites. The menu here is more-or-less traditional Hungarian (though not quite as heavy as super traditional homemade Hungarian food). A good place to start is with the steak tartare or a cold plate of cured meats. For dessert, try a Hungarian classic like Mákos guba (poppyseed bread pudding) or Chestnut puree. The restaurant is centrally located near the Basilica. Reservations are essential, and credit cards are not accepted. Omelets and other simple dishes are available for breakfast from 10am.
Bagolyvár
XIV. Állatkerti út 2
+36-1-468-3110
www.bagolyvar.com
Located in City Park, just next to the Zoo and across from the Széchenyi bath house, this restaurant is part of the Gundel empire. But whatever Gundel is (over-priced, stuffy, elegant), Bagolyvár is the opposite. While many say this place is simply a cheaper version of Gundel, the two restaurants each have their own kitchens and serve very different styles of food. “Owl’s Castle” is run exclusively by women—from the head chef to the cleaners—and the food is ultra-traditional. Don’t let the old-school dining room scare you away (the dark wood and bright orange tablecloths are a tad outdated), because if you’re after classic Hungarian food, you’ll find it here. The patio out back is actually the border of the zoo, so don’t be surprised if you hear the sounds of animals squawking as you eat.
MODERN
Borkonyha
V. Sas utca 3
+36-1-266-0835
www.borkonyha.hu
Located near the Basilica, this restaurant opened about a year ago and quickly became one of Budapest’s top restaurants (and a personal favorite). The menu changes frequently, with daily specials written on the board inside, and the focus is on fresh, seasonal ingredients simply prepared. The menu offers a wonderful combination of well-known Hungarian dishes (prepared in a contemporary way), as well as more creative dishes prepared with wholly-Hungarian ingredients. Don’t miss the signature foie gras appetizer, which is seared with thin layers of strudel dough on top, making it perfectly crispy on the outside. The name translates as “Wine Kitchen,” and as it implies, wine is taken very seriously. The waiters know their wine well, so just ask if you need help picking a glass or a bottle.
Pesti Disznó
VI. Nagymező utca 19
+36-1-951-4061
This newish restaurant is manned by Tamás Bereznay, a chef who has written several cookbooks and cooked for the president. Located on the so-called “Hungarian Broadway” (not far from the Opera), the idea here is Hungarian food served on small plates. You’ll find mini portions of Hungarian classics (such as an excellent cold goose liver with red onion marmalade and chicken paprikás), as well as some more imaginative recipes using Hungarian ingredients. The tasting menu offers five courses each paired with a different wine and is a great value at 6,990 HUF. With its open kitchen and funky music, this place is lively and is one of the few options for good late-night eating (it’s open until 1am). During the warm weather there are many tables set up outside, but since the inside is quite small, reservation are recommended.
Klassz
VI. Andrássy út 41
www.klasszetterem.hu
Connected with the Bortársaság chain of wine shops, this cozy restaurant near the Opera House is busily decorated with different patterns of floral wallpaper. The menu is brief and changes frequently. It offers dishes that are not quite Hungarian, though there are usually a few Hungarian dishes on the menu if that’s what you are looking for. The equally brief wine list consists of smartly-selected primarily Hungarian wines. Try a glass of the Gellavilla Olaszrizling (made by one of the owners of the wine shop) for a perfect aperitif. If you find something you like, head to the back of the restaurant where there is a small shop selling many of the wines. The two-course lunch special is a bargain at 890 HUF, though the dishes are much simpler than those found on the main menu. Klassz does not take reservations so you may have to wait for awhile on a busy night.
Olimpia Vendéglő
VII. Alpár utca 5
+36-1- 321-2805
www.alparutca.hu
No, you did not accidentally wander into a Greek restaurant. Olimpia just happened to keep the name, and most of the décor, from the restaurant that previously occupied this space. If you don’t like surprises, go somewhere else. Rather than writing a list of daily specials on a chalkboard, at Olimpia they write a list of ingredients that the chef will be working with that day. The only decision you make is how many courses you’d like (four courses are 5,700 HUF and seven courses are 8,300 HUF). Then, just sip a glass of wine and wait and see what shows up on your plate. For me, I don’t mind the tradeoff of one or two off courses for the surprise factor. Excellent service is a major part of the package here.
Bock Bisztró
VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49
+36-1-321-0340
www.bockbisztro.hu
Though Bock Bisztró is connected to the Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal, it is not your typical hotel restaurant. It is named for one of the great winemakers in Villány, József Bock, but chef Lajos Bíró is really the brains behind the place. Of course, there’s an extensive wine list here (and not just wines made by Bock). With your first glass of wine, a good place to start on the menu is with a few borkorcsolyák (“wine snacks”) for the table. Though the menu sounds pretty straightforward, the Hungarian dishes on the menu will surprise you with their inventive presentation and contemporary style. Breakfast is served between 8am and 11am, and advance reservations are essential.
Csalogány 26
I. Csalogány utca 26
+36-1- 201-7892
www.csalogany26.hu
Named for its address, the atmosphere here is a bit cool, and the location is a tad isolated (between Batthyány tér and Szell Kálmán tér) keep this place in mind for a slow, and memorable, dinner. In addition to the regular menu, you can choose from a four course (8,000 HUF) or an 8 course (12,000 HUF) menu (add wine pairings for a few more thousand HUF). While the menu is not Hungarian, many of the ingredients are local staples. A television screen in the dining room stays focused on the busy kitchen stovetops, so you can see how your meal is progressing behind the scenes.
IN THE STARS
If collecting Michelin-starred restaurants is your thing, Budapest now has two one-stared ones:
Costes
IX. Ráday utca 4
+36 1 219 0696
www.costes.hu
Closed during lunch.
Onyx
V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8
+36 1 429 9023
www.onyxrestaurant.hu
Onyx offers a special less-expensive lunch menu (as do many Budapest restaurants).
