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Favorite Restaurants in Budapest

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We get asked all the time for restaurant recommendations, so here are a few of our favorite places to eat Hungarian food in Budapest. The dining scene in Budapest continues to evolve for the better. Higher quality restaurants run by creative and highly-skilled chefs and owners are (thankfully) becoming more prevalent. Still, it’s well worth taking the time to strategize about where you’ll eat to avoid wasting time and money on a dud. Reservations aren’t always needed (but are recommended), and for the most part Hungarians are pretty casual when dining out.

While there may be less and less Hungarians dining out at the more expensive restaurants, if you’re coming to Hungary with foreign currency in your pocket you’ll find prices to be very moderate for the quality, portions, and dining experience that you get.

Of course there are many more good restaurants than we’ve listed here, but this should get you started! Jó étvágyat!

For much more on where and what to eat and drink in Budapest, check out my books: Food Wine Budapest (Little Bookroom) and The Food and Wine Lover’s Guide to Hungary (Park Kiadó).

—Carolyn

LUNCH PLACES / ´ETKEZDES
Don’t leave Budapest without lunching at an étkezde. Only open for lunch, these simple places serve very simple, inexpensive Hungarian food. The menus tend to change daily, and the better ones are as close to homestyle cooking as you will get in a restaurant. You can expect to pay less than 2,000 HUF for a meal at most étkezdes. Most only accept cash and don’t offer alcohol or coffee. And, don’t be surprised if you feel rushed…they need to turn those tables! Read about more of our favorite étkezdes.

Kádár Étkezde
VII. Klauzal tér 9
+36-1-321-3622

This place is an institution in the Jewish Quarter, and is one of the few étkezdes which is on the tourist track (though the many locals who dine here regularly don’t seem to notice). If you can brave the sometimes extensive lines, come on Saturday to try the excellent sólet (cholent) which has been cooked for so long that the beans are almost caramelized. Otherwise, the stuffed peppers served in slightly sweet tomato sauce are one of my favorite standbys.

Roma Ételbar 
I. Csalogány utca 20
+36-1-201-4545
www.controll.hu/roma

Though you wouldn’t know it if you’re not a local, this place attracts many low-key Hungarian celebrities who live in the neighborhood. But it counts among its regulars even more office workers and construction workers who come for the generous portions of standard Hungarian dishes. Inside, the small dining room is dark and stuffy, but when the weather is warm the place more than doubles in size by adding tables on the sidewalk. Carnivores will love the Cigánypecsenye, a slab or pork topped with a chunk of roasted bacon and lots of garlic.

Belvárosi Disznótoros
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 17

This is not an étkezde, but a modern take on a butcher shop. In Hungary butcher shops are not just places to buy meat, but places to have a quick stand-up lunch. This place serves the sausages, roasted meats, and pickled vegetables that are typical of a “pig-killing platter,” as the name implies. While you’re here, pick up some of the lovely Mangalica sausages.

TRADITIONAL

Fülemüle 
VIII. Kőfaragó utca 5
+36-1-266-7947
www.fulemule.hu

This restaurant near Blaha Lujza tér serves Hungarian food with a Jewish twist. Testament to its popularity, the walls hold many pictures of local politicians, artists, and celebrities who love the place, as well as the extended family of the proprietor. While you’ll find many typical Hungarian dishes here, it’s worth sampling one of the Jewish dishes such as the house-smoked beef brisket or the sólet (cholent) topped with, perhaps, a roasted goose leg or a piece of goose liver. Owner András Singer is usually around and loves to chat about food with customers.

Centrál Kávéház 
V. Károlyi Mihály utca 9
+36-1-266-2110
www.centralkavehaz.hu

Many of the city’s famous old coffee houses have lost their charming, laid-back atmosphere, but not the Centrál. This 19th century coffee house (and former literary haunt) was beautifully and authentically restored about a decade ago and was recently slightly modernized. Take a peek upstairs to see the room where famous writers and editors put together their publications. The menu offers good, slightly updated Hungarian fare (the duck breast and chicken paprikás are both excellent). There is a bargain-priced weekday lunch special (2 courses for 1,200 HUF and 3 courses for 1,590 HUF), though the dishes are simpler than those found on the main menu. This is not the place to skip dessert!

Café Kör
V. Sas utca 17
+36-1-311-0053
www.cafekor.com

Many Budapest restaurants now like to call themselves bistros, but Café Kör has long perfected the genre. The place is cozy, with a long list of daily specials scrawled on the wall, as well as a menu of longstanding favorites. The menu here is more-or-less traditional Hungarian (though not quite as heavy as super traditional homemade Hungarian food). A good place to start is with the steak tartare or a cold plate of cured meats.  For dessert, try a Hungarian classic like Mákos guba (poppyseed bread pudding) or Chestnut puree. The restaurant is centrally located near the Basilica. Reservations are essential, and credit cards are not accepted. Omelets and other simple dishes are available for breakfast from 10am.

Bagolyvár
XIV. Állatkerti út 2
+36-1-468-3110
www.bagolyvar.com

Located in City Park, just next to the Zoo and across from the Széchenyi bath house, this restaurant is part of the Gundel empire. But whatever Gundel is (over-priced, stuffy, elegant), Bagolyvár is the opposite. While many say this place is simply a cheaper version of Gundel, the two restaurants each have their own kitchens and serve very different styles of food. “Owl’s Castle” is run exclusively by women—from the head chef to the cleaners—and the food is ultra-traditional. Don’t let the old-school dining room scare you away (the dark wood and bright orange tablecloths are a tad outdated), because if you’re after classic Hungarian food, you’ll find it here. The patio out back is actually the border of the zoo, so don’t be surprised if you hear the sounds of animals squawking as you eat.

MODERN

Borkonyha
V. Sas utca 3
+36-1-266-0835
www.borkonyha.hu

Located near the Basilica, this restaurant opened about a year ago and quickly became one of Budapest’s top restaurants (and a personal favorite). The menu changes frequently, with daily specials written on the board inside, and the focus is on fresh, seasonal ingredients simply prepared. The menu offers a wonderful combination of well-known Hungarian dishes (prepared in a contemporary way), as well as more creative dishes prepared with wholly-Hungarian ingredients. Don’t miss the signature foie gras appetizer, which is seared with thin layers of strudel dough on top, making it perfectly crispy on the outside. The name translates as “Wine Kitchen,” and as it implies, wine is taken very seriously. The waiters know their wine well, so just ask if you need help picking a glass or a bottle.

Pesti Disznó
VI. Nagymező utca 19
+36-1-951-4061

This newish restaurant is manned by Tamás Bereznay, a chef who has written several cookbooks and cooked for the president. Located on the so-called “Hungarian Broadway” (not far from the Opera), the idea here is Hungarian food served on small plates. You’ll find mini portions of Hungarian classics (such as an excellent cold goose liver with red onion marmalade and chicken paprikás), as well as some more imaginative recipes using Hungarian ingredients. The tasting menu offers five courses each paired with a different wine and is a great value at 6,990 HUF. With its open kitchen and funky music, this place is lively and is one of the few options for good late-night eating (it’s open until 1am). During the warm weather there are many tables set up outside, but since the inside is quite small, reservation are recommended.

Klassz
VI. Andrássy út 41
www.klasszetterem.hu

Connected with the Bortársaság chain of wine shops, this cozy restaurant near the Opera House is busily decorated with different patterns of floral wallpaper. The menu is brief and changes frequently. It offers dishes that are not quite Hungarian, though there are usually a few Hungarian dishes on the menu if that’s what you are looking for. The equally brief wine list consists of smartly-selected primarily Hungarian wines. Try a glass of the Gellavilla Olaszrizling (made by one of the owners of the wine shop) for a perfect aperitif. If you find something you like, head to the back of the restaurant where there is a small shop selling many of the wines. The two-course lunch special is a bargain at 890 HUF, though the dishes are much simpler than those found on the main menu. Klassz does not take reservations so you may have to wait for awhile on a busy night.

Olimpia Vendéglő
VII. Alpár utca 5
+36-1- 321-2805
www.alparutca.hu

No, you did not accidentally wander into a Greek restaurant. Olimpia just happened to keep the name, and most of the décor, from the restaurant that previously occupied this space. If you don’t like surprises, go somewhere else. Rather than writing a list of daily specials on a chalkboard, at Olimpia they write a list of ingredients that the chef will be working with that day. The only decision you make is how many courses you’d like (four courses are 5,700 HUF and seven courses are 8,300 HUF). Then, just sip a glass of wine and wait and see what shows up on your plate. For me, I don’t mind the tradeoff of one or two off courses for the surprise factor. Excellent service is a major part of the package here.

Bock Bisztró
VII. Erzsébet körút 43-49
+36-1-321-0340
www.bockbisztro.hu

Though Bock Bisztró is connected to the Corinthia Grand Hotel Royal, it is not your typical hotel restaurant. It is named for one of the great winemakers in Villány, József Bock, but chef Lajos Bíró is really the brains behind the place. Of course, there’s an extensive wine list here (and not just wines made by Bock). With your first glass of wine, a good place to start on the menu is with a few borkorcsolyák (“wine snacks”) for the table. Though the menu sounds pretty straightforward, the Hungarian dishes on the menu will surprise you with their inventive presentation and contemporary style. Breakfast is served between 8am and 11am, and advance reservations are essential.

Csalogány 26
I. Csalogány utca 26
+36-1- 201-7892
www.csalogany26.hu

Named for its address, the atmosphere here is a bit cool, and the location is a tad isolated (between Batthyány tér and Szell Kálmán tér) keep this place in mind for a slow, and memorable, dinner. In addition to the regular menu, you can choose from a four course (8,000 HUF) or an 8 course (12,000 HUF) menu (add wine pairings for a few more thousand HUF). While the menu is not Hungarian, many of the ingredients are local staples. A television screen in the dining room stays focused on the busy kitchen stovetops, so you can see how your meal is progressing behind the scenes.

IN THE STARS
If collecting Michelin-starred restaurants is your thing, Budapest now has two one-stared ones:

Costes 
IX. Ráday utca 4
+36 1 219 0696
www.costes.hu

Closed during lunch.

Onyx 
V. Vörösmarty tér 7-8
+36 1 429 9023
www.onyxrestaurant.hu

Onyx offers a  special less-expensive lunch menu (as do many Budapest restaurants).

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Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Tokaj…and Even More

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Tokaj was the world’s first delineated wine region, and its wines are among the most historic in the world. Its unique techniques and classifications date back hundreds of years. Through the centuries thousands of people, from at least a dozen different ethnic groups, have been involved in the wine industry in Tokaj, all contributing to the widespread fame of Tokaj aszú.

We might think these characters have disappeared with over time, but traces of them can still be found in today’s Tokaj, in the names of vineyards, cellars and street names. A recently-released book, Tokaji Wine: Fame, Fate, Tradition (Ambeli Press) by Miles Lambert-Gócs, has gathered an amazing amount of information (in English!) related to the long and adventurous history of the region, and the characters and wines that have made it the most important wine region in Central Europe.

Lambert-Gócs, a Hungarian-American living in Virginia, has been researching the history and wines of Tokaj for more than 30 years. His book is an incredible compilation of data, more like an encyclopedia, of everything related to Tokaj, inlcuding people, vineyards, villages, wine making methods, grape varietals, and more. The book is divided into four main parts with a couple of essays between. The first section deals with the people and nations which have played roles in the history of Tokaj. You’ll read about the role of Armenian and Greek merchants in Tokaj; Paraskevich, a Russian wine merchant who purchased 20 barrels of red in 1744 for the czar (that’s right, there was red wine in Tokaj back then); and the Jews who contributed to the usage of sulfur for barrel sanitation.

The second part of the book focuses on the region’s villages and towns. There is an overview of their history, the best slopes in each village, and some remarkable people who lived and worked there. No detail seems too small: even the origins of names of certain villages are discussed (Tállya, for example, could have possibly originated from either a French or an Italian word). My favorite part is the third chapter, a listing of vineyards which includes their classification, history, explanation of their names, and more. Dereszla, Disznókő, Kincsem, Mézesmáj, Palandor and Zafír—names we still see on wine bottles today—are just some examples of the more than 300 entries.You’ll find all your favorite vineyards here with tons of interesting and unexpected data that will help you appreciate the wine in your glass even more.

The fourth part is dedicated to the varietals, vine growing and wine making methods that have been used throughout the centuries in Tokaj. It is not easy to keep track of all the different styles, grapes and variations, even for Hungarians. Here you’ll get a complex overview of the variety that Tokaj has to offer. Such expressions are decoded here such as aszú, aszú dough, eszencia, kosher wine, soaking, szamorodni, and yeast film. There is even an entry about the supposed gold content of Tokaj wine, a legend that was so widespread that Paracelsus, a famous 16th century scientist, decided to study the question. He must have taken it seriously because in 1526 he came to Tokaj to investigate the matter. After certain experiments (unknown to me) he came to the conclusion that there is no actual gold content in Tokaj wine, just an extremely high minerality (which any fan of Tokaj wine can attest to).

If you are looking for tasting notes, travel information, or reviews of modern wineries in Tokaj, you won’t find them in Tokaji Wine: Fame, Fate, Tradition. This book is for the serious fan of Hungarian wine, and the wine scholars who can’t find reliable information elsewhere about this mystical region. It is packed full of facts that they will treasure as much as a glass of honey-sweet, golden-colored Tokaj aszú.

–Gábor

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Tamás Bereznay’s Greek Lemon Cake

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Görög Citromos Süti

{Greek Lemon Cake}

I have a pretty big collection of old Hungarian and Transylvanian cookbooks—both in English and Hungarian—which I love for the insight into the periods when they were written and the many recipes which are hardly prepared anymore. Most of the books, I have to say, are just decorations on my bookshelf since I have not had the patience to actually cook from them. I’ll compare several recipes from different cookbooks, but the recipes are brief to the point of being unusable. There are no cooking times or temperatures, and practically no description. The recipes are basically lists of ingredients, written for housewives who learned to cook from their mothers and grandmothers, lived at their stoves, and knew from the sight, smell, and feel when something was done. Even though I am a pretty good cook with a culinary school degree, I like my recipes to hold my hand more, especially when I’m preparing something I’ve never tasted or seen before.

Recently I got two contemporary Hungarian cookbooks (which were lacking in my collection) which I couldn’t wait to get home and start cooking from. Author Tamás Bereznay is the chef at Budapest’s Karpatia Étterem as well as the chef for the Hungarian President. The books—Mai Magyar Konyha (Today’s Hungarian Kitchen) and Süteményeskönyv (Book of Desserts)—are both beautifully photographed and present Hungarian cuisine in a contemporary and casual way, the way that I like to cook my Hungarian dishes at home. But Bereznay doesn’t do anything crazy with the food to make it “modern”—you won’t find anything like deconstructed pörkölt or radical Dobos torta. He presents his recipes the way Hungarians eat and cook now, making sure that he don’t forget the many strong traditions of the past. He counts his grandmother as his greatest culinary influence.

A few months ago I sat down with Bereznay to talk about modern Hungarian cuisine (more on that topic later), which may restaurants nowadays in Budapest tout on their menus. “I hope that in a few years we will have more modern Hungarian cuisine to talk about,” he said. “We’ve made a few starts.” There are some dishes, he noted, that just shouldn’t be messed with, such as töltött kaposzta (stuffed cabbage) and gulyás (goulash). “These dishes have proven to the world that Hungarian gastronomy is good in itself.”

I’ve cooked several recipes from the books so far. Since I have such a sweet tooth, I’ll start with an adaptation of Bereznay’s Görög Citromos Süti (Greek Lemon Cake) from Süteményeskönyv. I used significantly less sugar (both for the cake and the syrup) than the recipe called for, and it turned out sweet enough for everyone. This moist lemony cake is perfect for summertime. It is even better the day after it’s prepared, once the syrup has fully been absorbed.

Görög Citromos Süti
{Greek Lemon Cake}

This recipe is adapted from Tamás Bereznay’s Süteményeskönyv (Boook Kiadó)

For the Cake:
1 lemon, with the rind grated (reserve the juice for the syrup)
3 eggs
300 ml (10 ounces) plain yogurt
200 grams (slightly less than 1 cup) sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
120 grams (1 cup) semolina
200 grams (1 1/2 cups) flour
Pinch of salt

For the Syrup:
100 ml (1/2 cup) water
100 grams (1/2 cup) sugar
3 lemons, with the rinds grated

For the Cake:
Preheat the oven to 160°C (320°F). In a small bowl, combine the eggs, yogurt, and grated lemon rind. In a large mixing bowl, combine the baking powder, flour, semolina, sugar, and the salt. Stir the yogurt mixture into the flour mixture until just combined. Pour into a greased loaf pan and bake for about 50 minutes, until golden brown.

For the Syrup:
Add the water, grated lemon rinds, lemon juice, and sugar to a small saucepan. Cook on a low flame, stirring occasionally, for about ten minutes.

To assemble the Cake:
Prick the cake all over with a fork. Pour the warmed syrup evenly all over the cake. Let the cake fully absorb all of the syrup before serving.

–Carolyn

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Kovászos Uborka {Recipe}

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{Fermented Cucumbers}

In Hungary, this hot stretch of summer in which the city empties and not much happens is known as cucumber season. The markets, of course, are also full of small, bumpy gherkins. With the gherkins, bunches of half-dried dill are sold, much stronger than the standard variety, with thick stalks and flowers. Many of cucumbers will get stuffed into three-liter jars with the dill (and sometimes garlic), covered with salty water, and topped with a piece of stale bread. The jars will be set in the sun on window sills or terraces in the city, or in the grass of a countryside garden. The yeast in the bread helps preserve the cucumbers through the process of lactic acid fermentation (the same process used for creating kimchi and sauerkraut).

It takes about three days, and the pickles should still be slightly crunchy with a pleasant sour taste. They are often served with meat dishes, or just eaten on their own. I love them sliced and eaten with bread and good házi butter. Some people like to drink the juice, and in the old days, it was added to wine to make a sort of spritzer. As you can see in the photo, I made just a half batch as they don’t keep as long as regular pickles.

See also my recipe for cucumber salad.

Kovászos Uborka
{Fermented Cucumbers}

Gherkins, cleaned, enough to fill whatever size jar you are using
Dill, a few stalks, preferably the strong kind
Salt
Pinch of sugar
Garlic, optional
1 slice of bread (stale is fine)

In a clean jar, arrange the gherkins upright, fairly tightly-packed, in the jar. Add the dill stalks and garlic, if using. Meanwhile, add the salt and sugar to a pot of lukewarm water, using two tablespoons of salt for every one liter (approximately one quart) of water. Pour the water over the cucumbers, ensuring that all of them are covered. Place the bread on top, and cover with a plate or a loosely-secured lid (some air should be allowed in). Place the jar in a warm spot, but not under strong direct sun. After the second day test to see how the pickles are doing. They should be ready after three or four days when you should transfer them to smaller jars and store in the refrigerator.

Tips: Be sure the cucumbers are fresh (one bitter one could ruin the batch). If the cucumbers are thick, slit them length-wise a few times so the liquid can make better contact with the interior. I was also advised to bring the jar inside during the night in case it gets chilly out, which could slow the fermentation process.

–Carolyn

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Meggyes Lepény {Recipe}

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{Sour Cherry Cake}

On my first visit to Hungary, shortly after Gábor and I met, we spent nearly two months eating, drinking, and traveling around the country. I loved being immersed in this new country, and taking in all of the new flavors and sights. I especially loved the cherries. On a short trip to Balaton we stayed at a panzió with a cherry tree in the yard, and we must have spent hours under (and in) that tree eating the cherries as fast as we could pick them. We somehow even managed to gather enough to fill a bag to eat on the train ride home. Ever since, when I think of summer in Hungary, I think cherries. And when I think cherries, I crave this cherry cake that Gábor’s mother bakes throughout the summer (and with home-canned cherries during the rest of the year).

These days, the offerings at the market change so quickly. From one day to the next, it seems, the flats full of strawberries disappeared, and gave way to cherries—sweet cherries (cseresznye), sour cherries (meggy), and black cherries (fekete cseresznye), from all over the country. I haven’t yet seen any white cherries—which little old ladies often sell bags of on the street. I’ve been buying a kilo of cherries nearly every day since they’ve arrived. Finally, yesterday, I was able to pit them faster than the kids could eat them so I could make this cake. The recipe is courtesy of my anyós, Kati néni. For another version of sour cherry cake, see Sarah’s recipe (which she also learned from her Hungarian mother-in-law).

Meggyes Leppény
{Sour Cherry Cake}

200 grams (slightly more than ¾ cup) plus 2 tablespoons sugar
100 grams (7 tablespoons) butter, plus extra for greasing the pan
4 eggs
1 teaspoon baking powder
2 heaping teaspoons cinnamon
150 ml (1/2 cup) milk
600 grams (21 ounces) walnuts, ground
Grated zest of one lemon
5 tablespoons apricot jam
½ teaspoon vanilla
250 grams (1 2/3 cups) plus two tablespoons flour
1 kilogram (a little over 2 pounds) fresh sour cherries, pitted

Preheat oven to 200° C (400° F). Grease a 22 x 30 cm (13” x 9”) baking pan (or a shallower one, if you prefer) with butter and sprinkle with flour.

In a small bowl, mix two tablespoons flour, two tablespoons sugar, and one teaspoon cinnamon. Sprinkle over the cherries and stir gently to cover the cherries. Set aside.

In a large bowl, beat the butter with the remaining sugar with a hand mixer until it is fluffy and pale yellow, about five minutes. Add eggs, one at a time, and beat until well incorporated. Add all other ingredients (except for cherries), and mix until everything is just incorporated (don’t over mix).

Transfer the batter to the baking pan and spread evenly. Evenly sprinkle the cherries on top. Bake until cake is browned, about 60 minutes.

–Carolyn

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A Sparkling Future

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Winemakers can be an eccentric lot. József Szentesi, who makes wine in the Buda-Etyek region, has got to be one of the most eccentric. He is a self-taught winemaker, who has previously owned and run a restaurant, and sold produce. His passion is re-discovering old Hungarian grape varietals, some of which are hardly found anywhere but at the research institute in Pécs where he finds them. He cultivates them in his vineyards (which are mostly near Lake Velence) and then makes wine from them by hand (with minimal technology and no machinery in sight) in his Budafok cellar, sometimes in quantities as low as five liters. He constantly experiments with old varietals and techniques. His small Budafok cellar, which belonged to his father, is stuffed with containers of all sizes holding his experimental wines, some of which are quite exceptional.

The fact that he produces wines made from unknown varietals like csóka, vörös dinka, porcsin, laska and fehér góhér is reason enough to head out to visit his cellar. But there is another reason to keep an eye on Szentesi. He also has a 2,000 square-meter cellar in Budafok (Hungary’s center for sparkling wine-making) where he has been quietly starting up an operation for making high quality méthode traditionnelle sparkling wine. With his partner—Josef Watzl, a German sparkling wine specialist—Szentesi will dramatically up the selection of Hungarian sparkling wine by the end of the year.

This year Szentesi will be producing 40,000 bottles of sparkling wine in his Budafok cellar (and more next year if the results are good). Szentesi and Watzl will not only make their own brand under the J&J label (József + Josef), but they will also make sparkling wine for 14 other small wineries, which until now didn’t have the facilities or the capital to produce their own. About a third of this year’s production will come from their own J&J brand and the rest will be labeled under other wineries’ names (which will include Zoltán Demeter, Sarolta Bárdos, Patricius, Orsolya, Hummel, Matias, Heimann, Merfelsz, Miklós Csabi, Rókusfalvy, Ottó Légli, Szent Andrea, and Kálna). They will be made from common varietals like Rhine riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir; native varietals such as furmint, hárslevelű, and kéknyelű; and the practically unknown Hamburgi muskotály.

While Hungarians love sparkling wine (which anyone who has ever been on the street in Budapest on New Year’s Eve can see), the selection of Hungarian sparkling wine is currently mostly limited to the wines from the enormous Budafok cellars of the Törley group and the smaller ones of the Garamváry family. These companies produce a range of sparkling wines, some of which are quite high quality (as well as good value). It is less common to see sparkling wine coming from smaller or family-owned cellars (Polgár in Villány and Kreinbacher in Somló are exceptions). Making sparkling wine calls for big investments, different techniques, and even more bureaucratic rules and regulations (we are in Hungary, after all).

Szentesi doesn’t want to imitate French Champagne, he says, as Hungary’s climate will never produce the same flavors as the soil and the cool climate of Champagne can. According to him, Hungarian sparkling wines are more similar to Italian or Spanish sparklers. These new sparklers will be ready in December (although we have preliminarily tasted a few of them already). We are already counting the days until these new sparklers emerge from their rest in the underworld of Budafok.

Find a few of Szentesi’s wines (as well as wines by other wineries) at his wine shop in Budapest, Kézműves Borok Háza (Budafoki út 111-113, Budapest 1117).

–Gábor

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Eperleves {Recipe}

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{Strawberry Soup}


Cold fruit soups (hideg gyümölcslevesek) are a staple of summertime eating in Hungary. The best-known version is made from cherries (either sour or sweet), but fruit soup can be made from nearly any type of fruit. During the summer, restaurant menus in Hungary hold soups made from whatever is available in the market at the time—cantaloupe, watermelon, gooseberry, apricot, apple, peach, plum…you get the picture. There are a variety of ways to make the soup, depending on what type of fruit you use. Sometimes the fruit is cooked (in water or wine with some spices and perhaps lemon zest). Sometimes the soup is thickened with flour. Sometimes wine, cream, or milk is used.

It is strawberry season now in Hungary, and strawberry soup is one of my favorites. It is also one of easiest to make since it requires no cooking. But the thing about cold fruit soup is that I usually would rather have it for dessert than as an appetizer. And I could even imagine having this soup, which is almost like a strawberry smoothie, for breakfast. We ate this soup with a few crumbled lemon balm leaves on top, but I was wishing that I would have had a handful of basil on hand to throw into the blender with the soup. Just to make it feel less like a breakfast smoothie and more like dinner, the adults at the table added a secret ingredient to their soup: a hefty splash of white wine .

Eperleves
{Strawberry Soup}

800 grams (1 ¾ pounds) strawberries, cleaned and hulled
½ cup honey
1 ½ cups milk
½ cup sour cream, plus extra to garnish
2 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of salt
Squeeze of lemon juice

Slice one-third of the strawberries and reserve. In a blender, puree the remaining strawberries with all of the other ingredients. In a serving bowl, add the sliced strawberries to the puree. Garnish with a dollop of sour cream and some mint, basil, or lemon balm.

–Carolyn

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Vienna’s Fashion District

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When I first moved to Budapest in 1999 shopping was much more difficult than it is today—both for food and clothing. In those days many expats still made regular trips to Vienna to shop, and even basic items (contact lens solution comes to mind) were hard to find in Budapest. Now the many international specialty food shops; international clothing chains; and many, many malls make shopping remarkably easier. Far better than the malls, however, is discovering the growing number of local designers (the best place to do this is at the monthly WAMP design market, coming up on June 27th).

But I still like to take the occasional day trip to Vienna, just a two-hour drive from Budapest. Inevitably, I spend most of my time at the Naschmarkt where you can shop, have coffee, shop some more, and then have drinks and dinner. Afterwards, I like to head over to my favorite Viennese neighborhood, the nearby 7th district, where the cafes spill out onto the sidewalks and every block holds at least one little quirky boutique. I recently wrote about shopping in the neighborhood, which is the city’s center of creativity.

Here are a few shops that were left out of the article:

At Art Point (Neubaugasse 35), Russian-born Lena Kvadrat (pictured below) is influenced by men’s clothing, and many of her designs incorporate men’s shirt or suit fabric, cuffs, or collars. Ulliko’s (Kirchengasse 7/4) designs are characterized by symmetric lines and the colors black, white, gray, and red. Ina Kent (Lindengasse 46) creates beautiful multi-functional leather wallets, bags, and purses, only available in Austria (pictured above). Check out Elke Freytag (Lindengasse 14) for elegant and feminine designs, with bold colors and cuts. Maronski (Lindengasse 1) sells colorful and functional cotton outfits, several of which can be worn multiple ways.

If you’re interested in checking out some of these shops June 25th would be a good time to do it. The neighborhood’s shops and businesses are throwing a huge party which will include art exhibitions and concerts. And plenty of shopping, of course.

I already know what I’m buying on my next trip to Vienna.

–Carolyn

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Where Everything is Made From Scratch

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It has been such an adventure exploring the food of Hungary over the past ten years. Still, after all of the restaurants and homes I’ve eaten in, some of my most memorable meals have been at the table at Gábor’s mother’s house. Undoubtedly, Kati néni has been the biggest influence to me in my quest to learn (and taste) all there is in Hungary. She is a perfectionist in the kitchen, and it was at her house that I learned how every Hungarian dish is truly supposed to taste when done right. I picked up lots from her by osmosis, just by hanging out in the kitchen, asking questions, and tasting. The best part: she takes special requests—something that four-year-old Anna is also learning—and asks us what we are in the mood for a few days before we go for a visit. And she always sends us home with a bag or two of home-cooked goodness. Read what I wrote about her cooking this week for Culinate. Also included with the article are my recipes for csirke paprikás and its traditional accompaniments, galuska and cucumber salad.

–Carolyn

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Zöldborsó Főzelék {Recipe}

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{Creamed Green Peas}

I wish I could tell you that I shelled these peas myself, but I didn’t. Now that peas (cukorborsó or zöldborsó) are in season in Hungary, most market vendors shell peas when they have a few minutes of free time, so they can sell them at a premium. I don’t know how I got inspired to make főzelék, a common vegetable dish in Hungary, when I saw these gorgeous freshly shelled peas (especially since I have never been much of a fan of the dish). Főzelék has no real translation (I usually translate it as “creamed vegetables” or “stewed vegetables”). I usually find the vegetables too overcooked and mushy for my taste, and the sauce to plentiful and bland. But my kids come home raving about the főzelék that they eat nearly every day at school, and there are a few different fast-food chains in Hungary specializing in the dish. So it clearly has many fans.

It is quick and easy to make, and there are a few different ways to do it. The dish can be made of any type of vegetable, and essentially just involves cooking the vegetables in a bit of fat and water and then making a sauce by adding the cooked vegetables to roux or adding sour cream mixed with a little flour at the end (called habarás, a common method of thickening soups and other dishes in Hungarian cooking). Some dishes also call for milk in the sauce. If you have any fresh herbs on hand, feel free to stir those in near the end.

Főzelék is usually served with a piece of fried or roasted meat on top, or an egg. These days tökfőzelék, made from thinly grated strips of pale green summer squash and dill, is available on menus throughout the city. But there is something about the sweet crunch of fresh peas that made them the perfect vegetable on this rare occasion when I had the urge to cook főzelék. I’ve been trying unsuccessfully to get the kids to eat asparagus splashed with lemon juice and olive oil for the past few weeks. But this pea főzelék very quickly disappeared, and the experts—the kids—gave it high marks. Maybe sour cream and bacon are all it takes to get kids to eat their vegetables?

Zöldborsó Főzelék
{Creamed Green Peas}

A few slices of smoked bacon, diced
450 grams (1 pound) peas, shelled
1 teaspoon sugar
Salt
1 Tablespoon flour
150-200 grams (5-7 ounces) sour cream

In a skillet or pot, over low heat, slowly sauté the bacon until it is a little crispy and most of the fat has been melted. Add the peas, sugar, a pinch of salt, and half cup of water (more if needed). Cook for about 15 minutes (or until taste), until the peas turn lighter green. Meanwhile, mix the flour and the sour cream (use more sour cream if you like your főzelék with lots of sauce). Thin the sour cream mixture with a few spoonfuls of the liquid from the peas. When the peas are cooked, add the sour cream mixture and cook, while stirring constantly, for about three more minutes.

–Carolyn

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